As a gemologist and diamond salesperson, one of the most common mistakes I find clients making when shopping for diamonds is that they compare diamonds on the basis of the certificate ("cert"; grading report) alone.  I tell my clients that, as cliche as it sounds, a diamond is more than the sum of its parts.  Grading reports are a great assurance to the consumer of the quality and authenticity of the diamond that they are purchasing, but they are limited in their use.  

     Imagine for a moment that you are in a diamond showroom and the salesperson brings out ten diamonds of the same color and clarity and all with grading reports from the same laboratory.  The carat weights are all quite similar, varying in only a few points, and all of them received Excellent cut grades.  Each grading report you read seems to look like a copy of the last one that you saw.  How are you going to choose which diamond is best buy for you when you cannot base your decision solely on the reports?  You look at the diamonds laid out in front of you, and you see that they strike you differently.  The store's gemologist shows you each stone under a gemological microscope and you see that although each is VS1-clarity, their internal characteristics look quite different.  Some seem to have brighter, more white flashes and others are very fiery and colorful.  What you have done now is you are looking into the heart of each diamond.  You are buying based on which diamonds speak most to you.  You have gone beyond the grading report.

     Well, what does this mean for you, the consumer?  It means that although there are many outlets for you to see scores of diamonds ranked by the details of their grading reports alone, you are missing the true visual element of each stone.  Use those outlets to narrow your quality parameters to best match your price range.  Decide on what approximate carat weights are most affordable for you.  Then, bring this information to your trusted jeweler, and go beyond the grading report and into the beauty of the diamond.  After all, when a woman wears her stunning new piece of diamond jewelry, it is this beauty you see, not the grading report.

- Jared. W. Olen, G.G., A.J.P., C.D.

How do you choose the right clarity?  The rule of thumb for a trained eye is “VVS” you need time under a micro-scope, “VS” Should be easy to locate under a micro-scope and difficult to find with a 10X loupe, and  “SI” should be easy to see under a 10X loupe.  “I1-I3” should have eye visible inclusions that can alter the brilliance of the diamond. Though this is not always true as I have seen variances with all the major labs… Though always purchase loose and compare side-by-side or request digital 10X micro-photography shots to assure grading accuracy.  Any more suggestions are welcome?   

Why call your self Tustin Jewelry Exchange when you are in “Santa Ana”?

What is up with this?  Why do they lie before you even step foot into their stores or websites.  They sell hi-end items that most of us are unsure of so why confuse us by calling yourself USA-certed.com when you operate in Vancouver, Canada?  Any more you can think of?           

The standard in the industry is GIA and for accuracy AGS is on par with GIA and than we got EGL which tends to be inconsistent as it competes against the two previously mentioned. Always try to compare EGL next to GIA certified diamonds so you understand and see why it’s cheaper.  As a diamond seller it never made sense why so many people will not consider a GIA graded “J” color though will consider an “H” with the EGL certificate.  As the same diamond graded by both labs will produce inconsistent results, one making it more saleable to the unexpected shopper than the other.  Not to mention the many in house certs that are anograms of the popular certificates to confuse people like "AIG", and "EGL Intl" (no affliation with EGL USA) and appraisals from gemologist that are not reputable or adhere to any guidlines or regulations.  What was your experience comparing certs?

YES, YES and YES!  If it is a quality diamond over 0.50ct, unless you are a professional Diamond buyer with years of experience or have guarantees in writing and the company has an impeccable reputation we never recommend purchasing a diamond with out a certificate from a third-party, don’t even consider it.  Many people do not disclose or even are aware they are purchasing or selling diamonds that have been treated or altered.  Have you ever experienced or had friends purchase a diamond to find out its inferior after you laid your money out?

How do you choose the right clarity?  The rule of thumb for a trained eye is “VVS” you need time under a micro-scope, “VS” Should be easy to locate under a micro-scope and difficult to find with a 10X loupe, and  “SI” should be easy to see under a 10X loupe.  “I1-I3” should have eye visible inclusions that can alter the brilliance of the diamond. Though this is not always true as I have seen variances with all the major labs… Though always purchase loose and compare side-by-side or request digital 10X micro-photography shots to assure grading accuracy.  Any more suggestions are welcome?   

It seems to be very elusive the "Cushion Brilliant" and most manufactures are clueless when it comes to producing an ideal cushion.  EGL has no clue what or how to call a true Cushion Brilliant and GIA is being very conservative on the definition.  As a true Cushion Brilliant the facets on the pavilion should reach the girdle hence the "Brilliant" like a Round bottom, and a modified has a radiant cut that the pavilion facets will not reach the girdle.  I’ve seen more than a dozen varieties of “Cushion Cuts” and recently an Israeli cutter created what I would call a "Hybrid" cut; that has the four pavilion facets reaching the girdle and the modified facets in between.  The face-up is inconsistent as they can appear like a modified or brilliant and originally GIA called these Brilliants, which as a Cushion purist upset me. The reason why is that “Cushion Brilliants” are really popular and now cutters can cut a "cushion brilliant" diamond that will retain the extra weight and look of a modified and still get the premium for that cut. Though recently GIA started calling these “Hybrids” modified which probably pissed off a lot of Israeli cutters but certainly opened up the debate on what is a true “Cushion Brilliant”.  A true "Cushion Brilliant" should not window at angles(loss of life at angles, usually appears to have four quadrants) or appear like shattered glass.   

This is an email I sent to an Israeli Diamond cutter who tried to explain why they do not cut true Brilliants: Though you are right they loose more weight, though when a 1ct is cut properly it should spread 6mm on average and most are cut to heavy.  Once they establish ideal parameters cutters will not be able to sell the heavy junk they have been cutting.  I like it to sparkle like a round with small flashes like a princess though it appears its true size, and unfortunately only a true brilliant with a round bottom will satisfy me.  Though that cut will always acquire a premium as it does loose the weight like a round and is almost impossible to find, as most cutters have that attitude you described.  Sorry for the long email I just love my Cushions and yes if cut to traditional standards GIA will consider them "Brilliants".

"Two month Salary Last Forever", was coined by DeBeers along time ago and has been the norm ever since.  Though as a good guideline I feel it doesn't stand true anymore.  That’s because a long time ago the average 1ct diamond cost less than $2500, though a one carat today can easily exceed $6000.  We still need to survive! So what is your take on the old adage, and what advice can you provide for a first time diamond buyer?     

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